Bulbul brings spices, stories and smiles to the City of London.
“Wow, that’s so good,” I say, beaming between bites. I’m at the new Indian restaurant Bulbul, which has opened in the City of London. Tucked away down a side street, it has been created by chef Rohan D’Souza and restaurateur Twinkle Keswani, and showcases the diverse flavours and culinary traditions of India.
The team travelled across India to learn directly from regional cooks, home kitchens and local markets. The aim is to showcase dishes shaped by micro-cuisines from across the subcontinent, bringing traditional tales to the table alongside lesser-known stories. When we arrive on opening day, everything smells new, and everything feels exciting. The menus have barely been opened, the finishing touches are still being made in the bathrooms, and it feels like we are the first people to sit in the seats.
What the dining room lacks in natural light, it more than makes up for with vibrant colours. It feels as though you are entering a five-star hotel lobby, complete with lounge chairs, a fountain and a bar. The space has the opulence of a Rajasthani palace, and waiters ready to serve. There’s no denying the authenticity. “All of the furniture has come from India,” smiles one member of staff.
Bulbul’s menu spans small plates, tandoor dishes, large plates, sides, breads and desserts. The choice can feel a little overwhelming, but the team are bursting with knowledge about each dish and happy to help. And, as I was dining with a vegetarian, they were not stuck with the one-dish doom.
We started with the Paan Patta Chaat, which was crunchy and creamy. Served with tamarind-jaggery chutney, yoghurt and coriander, it balanced sweet and tangy flavours with a satisfying crunch. The Mushroom and Onion Bhaji may be inspired by humble street snacks, but they were given a luxurious upgrade with a truffle yoghurt. For the tandoor dishes, the Achari Paneer Tikka is one of the few times it feels completely acceptable to eat a whole slab of cheese. Marinated in pickling spices before being chargrilled, the paneer had a smoky and spicy finish.
The Dum Pukht Wagyu Lamb Kakori Kebab was about as impressive as it gets. Forget about the kebabs from your local takeaway. Our waiter regaled us with the story behind the dish: legend has it that an ageing ruler in Lucknow lost his teeth and wanted to eat minced meat, so his chef created kebabs that required no chewing. The result is spectacularly soft and smooth, rich without feeling heavy.
As someone with roots in North India, I feel like I can be the judge of a Butter Chicken. I was prepared for something so-so – after all, this staple appears on menus across London – but this was stop-you-in-your-fork good. It was silky and soft, coated in a creamy gravy full of depth. I packed this to take away, and it tasted just as good (if not better) the next day.
If you are vegetarian, the Chettiar Jackfruit makes you feel like you are not missing out on any of the fun or flavour. Drawing from the food of South India, it combined chilli and coconut for a vibrant dish. And the Butter Naan arrived fresh from the oven and was the precise amount of pillowy.
Desserts included the White Chocolate Rasmalai. Thankfully, it didn’t suffer from the over-the-top sweetness you can often find in Indian desserts. Instead, it felt like a children’s dessert had grown up. The creamy concoction came with fragrant saffron and cardamom.
The drinks menu was presented as a box of spices. Opened at the table, we were encouraged to touch and smell the ingredients, from cardamom to feni. We sipped our way through the Feni and Rice, a tropical tipple drawing inspiration from the flavours of Goa. The Guava and Mogra Martini was crisp and cool, with the sweetness of guava balanced by the delicate perfume of mogra. Plus, the drinks menu boasts Indian gin and Indian single malt whisky.
What makes Bulbul so wow-worthy is its sense of discovery. It awakens your curiosity as you touch the spices, hear the stories and taste the creations. On our visit, it was filled with families and office workers, all lingering well beyond lunchtime. Come for the food, stay for the atmosphere – and leave wowed.
Where: Bulbul London, 21 Tudor Street, London, EC4Y 0DJ
When: Monday to Saturday from 11.30am to 10.30pm
Contact: @bulbullondonofficial