Located in Shoreditch, Sohaila is telling a different story about Lebanon.
When you hear the word Lebanon today, it’s difficult not to think of the headlines. News reports are dominated by conflict, air strikes and destruction, painting a picture of a country defined by crisis. Step inside the restaurant Sohaila, however, and you’ll discover a different side to the country. Located on the chaotic and competitive Shoreditch High Street in London, the team has built a business around a simple philosophy: arrive as a guest and leave as family. FACT met CEO and co-founder Nathalie Moukarzel to talk about cultures, change and the new cookbook, Sohaila: Lebanese Recipes Made with Fat Macy’s.
A tale of two cities
Nathalie grew up between two culinary worlds. Her father is Lebanese and her mother, whose family is originally from Derry, was born and raised in South Africa. She recalls: “We had quite an eclectic style of food. My mother grew up with meat, sausages and tinned food. On my father’s side, it was all about abundant mezze, with tables filled with 10 or 12 dishes. It was never just a plate of food. It was only when I was older that I realised not everyone else’s home was like that. I remember going to people’s houses and seeing one plate of food. It was such a different experience.”
Food quickly became a passion. She spent hours reading her mother’s cookbooks and experimenting with recipes. While she admired celebrated food writers such as Nigel Slater (“his food is pure, delicious and focused on produce”) and Claudia Roden (“she is incredibly inspirational”), it was her grandmother, Saheda, who left a lasting impression. She smiles: “My grandmother worked in a restaurant before she retired. Whenever she came to visit us, or we stayed with her, she would make the most challenging recipes seem so simple and effortless.”
Food for thought
When it came to turning that passion into a business, it became about far more than food. Nathalie was working as a chef, and her future business partner, Meg Doherty, was working in the charity sector. In 2016, the pair founded the social enterprise Fat Macy’s, which helps people move from temporary accommodation into permanent homes through hospitality training. The result: Sohaila, the Lebanese restaurant and wine bar, which opened in 2022.
Nathalie explains: “I always knew I wanted to work in hospitality. I didn’t know exactly what that would look like. The transition from working for someone else’s business to owning a business happened accidentally. My business partner could see a gap – people couldn’t work more than a certain number of hours a week without losing their benefits. People were getting stuck in a cycle of homelessness and temporary accommodation.”
On our visit to Sohaila, it’s buzzing – the ground floor has been booked for a corporate dinner, and every table in the basement is filled. The menu respects Lebanese traditions and brings forgotten dishes back to life. “Sometimes there’s a misconception that Lebanese food is just grilled meat, hummus and salad. It’s so much more than that. We were talking today about raw fish dishes from the north coast of Lebanon, for example. There are so many different layers, flavours and traditions,” shares Nathalie.
If you’re visiting, she recommends the labneh with chilli butter, as it’s “absolute heaven”. She also recommends the chicken kofta, muhammara and sea bass crudo. The drinks list has been carefully curated and showcases Lebanese bottles and low-intervention wines from smaller producers across the eastern Mediterranean. Many locals also stop by to browse the wine shelves and buy a bottle to take home.
Exciting expansions
Now, Nathalie and Meg have plans for a second restaurant and are releasing their cookbook, Sohaila: Lebanese Recipes Made with Fat Macy’s. “We’d love to stay in London, but we’re exploring different spaces and trying to find the right fit,” she explains. “The cookbook is for everyone. It doesn’t have to be for someone who cooks all the time. We wanted to make sure people wouldn’t struggle to find ingredients or spend too much money preparing one meal for a dinner party.”
Away from the restaurant, life is just as full. Nathalie is raising two children, aged three and seven, enjoys gardening, and recently finished reading Elizabeth Strout’s The Things We Never Say. “I realised that I actually enjoy watching television, which is a revelation,” she laughs. “I also enjoy cooking non-Lebanese food at home. I cook a lot for my children. It’s joyful and challenging because children are your harshest critics.”
As our conversation returns to Lebanon, she reflects on the country beyond the headlines. “Lebanese people are incredibly resilient. They’ve been through so much, but they have such a rich history and culture. Everything, from the music and literature to the food and traditions, is so vibrant and beautiful,” she concludes. As Lebanon is so often defined by conflict, Sohaila offers another perspective – one of generous hospitality, where every plate has a purpose.
Sohaila: Lebanese Recipes Made With Fat Macy’s is available to pre-order now and will be released on 10 September 2026.
Where: Sohaila, 232 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6PJ
When: Monday to Saturday from 5pm to 11pm
Contact: https://sohailarestaurant.com