Jason Atherton and Spencer Metzger open Chez Rose.
It’s hot. Thirty-five degrees Celsius hot. The country is in the midst of a heatwave, and we are in one of the hottest new restaurants in London, Chez Rose. Created by Jason and Irha Atherton and Spencer Metzger, it combines the buzz of a French bistro with the elegance of a Mayfair establishment. Despite the restaurant having been open for only two weeks, every table is full by 1pm on a Friday – and we’ve managed to secure a spot.
Jason and Spencer worked together on Row on 5 in London and its predecessor, Row on 45, in Dubai, UAE – where they have both also lived. Chez Rose is led by Spencer and inspired by his grandmother, Rosemary. So much so, there’s even a charming photo of him with its namesake, Rose(mary), on the website. He was particularly fond of her chicken soup, and she shaped his love of food from an early age.
Located on Pollen Street, Chez Rose occupies a site that has previously been home to several Jason Atherton restaurants. The venue is warm and welcoming, making it feel as though you’re stepping into someone’s home – it’s fitting, given that chez means “home” in French. The space boasts rich dark woods and deep green tones, from the potted plants to the emerald banquettes, complemented by crisp white tablecloths. Take your pick from plush sofa seating, countertop seats by the bar or, as we had, tight tables that require you to love your neighbour.
The menu brings together French flavours with British produce. Dishes focus on high-quality seasonal ingredients and refined techniques, all designed to let the produce shine. It spans snacks, starters, small plates, large plates, sides and desserts. Look out for the old-school blackboard, where the daily specials and catch of the day are written in chalk.
The snacks included a Cantabrian Anchovy, a classy canapé, and French Onion Gougères, which were cheesy and caramelised. Among the starters, the Orkney Scallop was a beautifully buttery, creamy concoction, and the Bluefin Tuna offered delicate slices packed with freshness and flavour.
We followed our waitress’s recommendation and ordered the Beef au Poivre. Judging by the number of plates with beef coming out of the kitchen, much of the restaurant had done the same. When it arrived, we were told: “Cut it open and see if it’s cooked to your preference.” I did as I was told and found it was too pink for my liking. I was slightly puzzled that I hadn’t been asked about my preferred temperature when ordering.
In the meantime, I watched my dining companion eat their main. The Dover Sole came with a bright, lemony finish, and the crispy Pink Fir Potatoes were by my side until my main arrived. The Beef au Poivre was worth the wait. Rich, peppery and coated in a silky sauce, it’s a dish I’d happily eat again.
As for the desserts, the Mousse au Chocolat was a rich chocolate creation. The Crêpe Suzette hit our sweet spot elevating the humble pancake into an adult dessert. Buttery, boozy and served with a scoop of ice cream, it had us scraping the plate clean.
As for the drinks list, there are reliable wines such as Chardonnay, Picpoul and Shiraz available by the glass. More interesting are the premium Coravin pours and the non-alcoholic Sigalas Rabaud Moderato. Chez Rose is the first restaurant in London to serve the alcohol-free wine.
The food at Chez Rose was a hit, but the service was hit and miss. Our snacks were forgotten, with our starters arriving first. We had to remind the team about the snacks, and the glass of wine we ordered when we sat down did not arrive until we were eating our mains. The staff were apologetic throughout, and we put it down to the oh-so-hot opening weeks.
Chez Rose: the rose that grew in the heatwave.
Where: Chez Rose, 5 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NE
When: Daily from 12pm to 3pm and 5.30pm to 11pm
Contact: @chezroselondon