At Clio, Greek hospitality meets a London address.
It’s cold. It’s wet. It’s also June, for goodness’ sake, but even our optimism can’t seem to coax the sun out in the capital. I arrive at Clio in Marylebone, with my hood up and shoulders shivering. Warm, welcoming and wonderfully transportive, the new Greek restaurant feels like a breath of warm air. Orange and terracotta tones glow against soft amber lighting, and the staff greet us with the kind of smiles commonly found on a Greek island rather than a rainy street in London. And now, the grey skies outside feel very far away indeed.
Greek restaurants in London are as common as olive trees in the Peloponnese, and diners in Marylebone are spoilt for choice. After all, Clio counts the celebrity favourite Chiltern Firehouse among its neighbours. Stepping into the new restaurant feels less like entering a restaurant and more like entering a Greek family home. We see diners ranging from families with children to friends catching up. An open kitchen sits at its heart, while shelves are lined with Greek travel guides, potted plants and carefully curated knick-knacks. And all those objects feel as though they have been collected while island hopping, no less.
Chef Glen Ballis is behind Clio in London. In the Middle East, he is best known for the FACT award-winning INÁ at J1 Beach in Dubai. Now, Glen brings that same fiery energy to London. At Clio, the menu showcases sharing dishes that celebrate exceptional ingredients. The focus is on produce-led cooking, with grilled fish, slow-cooked meats and seasonal vegetables sourced from trusted suppliers and farms.
The menu changes with the seasons and spans snacks, breads, starters, mains, sides and desserts. The dips are marvellously moreish. We find ourselves constantly reaching for the Yoghurt Flat Bread, which arrives hot from the oven, perfect for scooping up the comforting, creamy hummus with broad beans and mint. No visit to a Greek restaurant is complete without ordering a Greek salad. At Clio, it is assembled tableside, creating a touch of theatre and an Instagram-worthy moment. The result is a vibrant mix of chunky feta and chunkier tomatoes.
The Mazara Red Prawn Saganaki tastes as though it had washed up straight from the Mediterranean to Marylebone, showcasing a sweet, smoky and flavour-packed sauce. The Beef Keftedes are super soft and offer a Greek take on a mini slider sans bun – delivering all the juicy satisfaction. By this point, we are already feeling full, as the portions are more generous than we had imagined. But we continue with the Herculean task and eat like champions.
The King Crab and Tomato Orzo leans towards the tomato, and the sauce feels slightly watery for our taste. The Rabbit Stifado is a superb success, and is a traditional Greek dish that is less commonly found on London menus. The rabbit is a comforting concoction, served with whipped polenta and a rich Mavrodaphne sauce. Meanwhile, the Braised Runner Beans with potatoes and tomatoes are a healthy hit. Feta proves to be a familiar friend throughout the meal – here it is generously scattered over the orzo and beans.
Dessert comes in the form of Loukoumades, Greece’s answer to doughnuts. The fluffy fried dough balls arrive warm and golden, served in a portion of four. As for the drinks, there is a strong emphasis on Greek wines, with bottles from further afield, including Australia and France. The cocktails and mocktails continue the Mediterranean theme.
We start with the Coconut Lemonade, which sits somewhere between a milkshake and a piña colada, delivering a creamy, summery sip. Clio’s Garden is refined and refreshing, combining elderflower and mint. And the Greek Negroni is served over a large block of ice, and is the sort of drink you would love to linger over.
Throughout the meal, the staff were knowledgeable and attentive without ever feeling overbearing. As we stepped back out into the rain-soaked streets of London, we felt as though we had been kissed by the Greek sun or, perhaps more accurately, by Clio. Visit Clio – it will brighten up your day.
Where: Clio, 66 Chiltern Street, London, W1U 4EJ
When: Daily from 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm
Contact: https://cliorestaurant.co.uk