Humo reopens as Igni with a new chef, name and menu.
When Taylor Swift re-recorded her back catalogue to regain ownership of her music, it revealed a wider truth: a creative identity can be reshaped, reclaimed or reintroduced. The same is true in the restaurant industry – if Igni sounds familiar, that’s because it is. The restaurant, formerly known as Humo, has reopened at the same location with the same concept, design, counter and the same open fire kitchen – but with a new name, new chef and new menu.
Located on George Street in Mayfair, Igni is a celebration of flame-led cooking, shaped by craftsmanship and curiosity. In Latin, the name means fire. The concept was developed by the former chef and team behind Humo, which was a FACT Dining Awards London winner. Given the pedigree, ambitions are high – the original restaurant held a Michelin Star, after all. The team now includes Theo Clench, who has worked at Michelin-Starred restaurants including Akoko, Cycene and The Clove Club.
Having previously dined at Humo, it’s difficult not to feel dining déjà vu. The exterior is discreet, with an old-school gentleman’s club feel, and the interior remains minimalist. Dark woods, navy seats and a counter overlooking the fire create an atmospheric dining room. We were seated at the counter in prime position, which is perfect for those Instagram moments. My guest could not stand the heat, so we got out of the open kitchen. Note: we visited during a heatwave, the air conditioning was not working at the back of the restaurant, and we were provided with a mini fan.
Igni has the vibe of a private members’ club where you’re likely to bump into someone you know. So much so, we spotted a familiar face we knew, who in turn spotted a familiar face they knew – and, as all of us were foodies, it was a clear sign that this is one of the hottest restaurants right now.
The service was driven more by professionalism than personality and remained efficient throughout. We worked our way through the three-course menu, which is ideal for a lunch break or anyone seeking high-quality dining at a more affordable price point – it starts from £49. A five-course, eight-course, and à la carte menu are available.
Starters included Cuttlefish with buckwheat, which was successful in its simplicity, and a delicate dish. The Oyster with cucumber came in a gorgeous green and was a creamy concoction. Between courses, we were served a bao-style bread made with Yukon Gold potatoes, which was pillowy soft and served piping hot from the oven. It was perfect for mopping up butter and could be replenished on request.
What the mains lacked in size, they made up for in flavour. The Duck leaned into Japanese flavours, thanks to daikon and umeboshi, which provided a sharp and savoury balance. The Pollock was paired with smoked olive, adding a soft, sweet and smoky depth to each bite.
For a restaurant so focused on fire, you might not expect desserts to light up the experience, but they were a successful surprise. The Strawberry with oat and kombu was a playful dish with sweetness and umami depth. The Tofu offered a more grown-up take on a chocolate craving, with a rich flavour profile that sat somewhere between cocoa and fermented koji.
The drinks list offers creative takes on classic cocktails. The Caviar Martini arrives with a soy-based caviar accompaniment, and the Coconut Negroni balances freshness with smokiness. Non-alcoholic options are also available, alongside a carefully curated selection of wines by the glass, including increasingly popular orange wines. We sipped our way through the Mixtura, Albariño Treixadura from Galicia and Melgaço, which was a crisp, cool wine.
Igni felt like an old friend, especially as we had visited the OG before and found our friends there. While the three-course menu and portions were on the smaller side, the flame cooking, traditional setting and service (still) stand out in London’s dining scene. And, as Taylor Swift sings, a classic concept never goes out of style.
Where: Igni, 12 St. George Street, Mayfair. London, W1S 2FB
When: Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 2pm and 5.30pm to 9.30pm
Contact: https://igni-london.com