The chef makes a dazzling debut in the capital with Michael Caines at The Stafford.
Michael Caines’ life sounds like something out of a film. He was born to an English mother and a West Indian father, but his mother was forced to put him up for adoption because of the stigma surrounding their mixed-race relationship. He trained under great chefs, including Raymond Blanc in Oxfordshire and Joël Robuchon in Paris. Life took an unexpected turn, as he lost his right arm in a car accident. Undeterred, he taught himself to cook using his left hand and went on to become one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs. Now, he has opened Michael Caines at The Stafford London, and it’s nothing short of a triumph.
Throughout Michael’s career, he has opened restaurants around the world, from the United Kingdom to the United Arab Emirates. He worked at Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane, and Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons. He went on to become Head Chef at Gidleigh Park, where he earned two Michelin stars, and has been a firm fixture on the television series Great British Menu.
Michael Caines at The Stafford London is his first restaurant in the capital, and it celebrates the best of British cuisine. He explains: “I grew up in a large family, and my love of food and cooking came from the big family meals we always shared together, prepared by my mother, who was a wonderful cook. My father loved to grow vegetables and fruit in our garden, and so I grew up appreciating the flavours of the freshest foods, picked that day and simply prepared.”
The Stafford London is discreetly located in the heart of Mayfair. Get ready for a traditional welcome, thanks to the Union Jack flags and doormen in top hats. The restaurant sits on the ground floor and feels like you are entering your fancy friend’s living room. There are soft sofas, white tablecloths and framed artworks. We visited at lunchtime alongside an old-money crowd with silver hair, Chanel bags and tailored blazers. There was a couple in one corner, a birthday celebration in another, and even a hotel guest dining solo.
Diners are spoilt for choice when it comes to menus at Michael Caines at The Stafford London. Take your pick from breakfast, à la carte, classic, set lunch, Sunday lunch, signature tasting, vegan and vegetarian menus. We opted for the signature tasting menu, which offers the restaurant’s greatest hits. Spanning seven courses, it showcases the finest British produce and feels like a tribute to the country’s cuisine.
The Orkney Scallop Ceviche was fresh, vibrant and beautifully balanced, with buttery scallops, a zingy avocado vinaigrette and caviar adding a luxurious finish. The Poached Turbot with scallop and black trumpet came with a mushroom mousseline and was a delicate dish, with the fish boasting a silky, soft finish.
When it came to the mains, the quality did not just turn up a notch, it went through the roof. The Roast Pigeon was the dish we could not stop talking about. The meat was terrifically tender and served with a rich Madeira sauce. The Best End of English Lamb came with lamb cheek and lamb belly – it was comfort food done with class, accompanied by potatoes and a pea purée.
We were treated to two sorbet desserts; both were enjoyable, although we could have done with just one. The Strawberry Mousse was the standout, and felt like an elevated take on a school dinner classic. The dish featured layers of strawberry mousse, strawberry jelly and vanilla foam.
Drinks at Michael Caines at The Stafford London were just as carefully curated. The bar sits at the heart of the restaurant, and you can watch the bartenders at work. As we were not drinking alcohol, we were pleased to see a whole page dedicated to alcohol-free cocktails, lagers, spirits and wine. We went for the Sobero with grapefruit, mint and lime, which was refreshing and refined, and the Sylva Temple with elderflower and ginger ale, which was fizzy and fun. When we had finished, the staff even created an off-menu mocktail that suited our preference for less-sweet drinks.
Throughout our experience, the staff were poised and polished. The restaurant is perfect for a special occasion; we left with wide smiles and full stomachs. The cooking took centre stage, the service was a worthy supporting act, and the setting completed the picture. If the experience were Michael Caines: The Movie, we’d be first in line for the sequel.
Where: 16-18 St James’s Place, London, SW1A 1NJ
When: Daily 12pm to 10pm
Contact: https://thestaffordlondon.com/michael-caines-at-the-stafford/