Located in Mayfair, Tobi Masa combines polish, precision and passion.
“That’s incredible,” I smile, half eating, half talking, completely caught up in the moment. I’m sitting at the counter of the Japanese restaurant Tobi Masa, tucked inside The Chancery Rosewood in Mayfair. The omakase experience is undoubtedly the heart of the space, which spans a bar, a restaurant, and a coveted chef’s counter that is the talk of the town.
Born in Tochigi, Japan, Masayoshi Takayama – better known simply as Masa – was raised by parents who owned a catering business. From a young age, he helped with the family trade, learning the art of preparing and cutting fish. In the 1980s, he opened restaurants in Los Angeles, where his clientele included the American actor Marlon Brando. Today, he is recognised as one of the world’s most celebrated chefs and is the force behind the three-Michelin-starred Masa, Bar Masa and Kappo Masa in New York. He previously opened a culinary counter at Harrods and launched Tobi Masa in October 2025.
Set in the heart of Mayfair, Tobi Masa is housed in the former United States Embassy, which dates back to 1785. In Japanese, the name means “to fly,” reflecting a philosophy of freedom and creativity. Chef Masa is now in his mid-70s – while most people his age are retiring, he is following that philosophy and soaring ahead. He once said, “My style is always something different, solid. Ingredients, ingredients, ingredients. That’s my style.” The menu does exactly that – celebrating fresh, high-quality seasonal ingredients in a way few restaurants do. Guests can choose between the à la carte and omakase menu – we’d urge you to book the latter.
Tobi Masa is the epitome of quiet luxury and effortless elegance. During our visit, the R&B soundtrack felt unexpected, setting the soundtrack for a space filled with dark woods, plush blue seating, a striking metallic artwork, and a mix of international hotel guests and well-heeled locals.
The Tobi Masa counter can accommodate seven guests and is priced at £260 per person. The seats offer a direct view of the chefs at work, from the sounds of the chopping boards to the smell of smoke. We were greeted by Chef Moisés, who struck the perfect balance between friendly chitchat and allowing us to continue our conversations among ourselves. The staff were adept at anticipating our needs, gently lowering a blind as we squinted in the sunlight, and discreetly stepping back to allow us to fully enjoy the experience.
We began with Chef Masa’s signature dish, Toro Tartare with Caviar. A generous layer of caviar sat atop rich, creamy tuna, creating a luxurious contrast of silky texture and bursts of saline brightness. It was served with toasted milk bread, which was replenished each time we finished a piece.
The Hokkaido Scallops arrived in threes. Sweet and soft, they were delicately dressed with vinaigrette and chives. The Fish Pasta was wonderfully inventive, with pollock finely sliced into strands resembling pasta, coated in a vibrant green pesto that gave it a fresh, herbaceous lift.
As we moved onto the sushi, the chef showcased his knife, explaining how he cuts with the grain rather than against it – a technique that enhances texture and flavour. We were told that the nori is ordered a month in advance. And, out of nowhere, a blowtorch was produced with theatrical flair, adding a final flourish.
Rice, often a supporting act, was treated with equal importance and served at a set temperature. We were encouraged to eat the sushi once served, sans chopsticks. And, we were provided with bowls of warm water and towels to keep our hands clean between courses.
Ikura arrived glistening in a vivid orange, tasting as though it had washed up from the sea to the streets of Mayfair. Kanpachi was clean and chewy, while Madai had a pearl-like sheen and sweetness. The Toro was a standout – rich, buttery and melting in the mouth. The Toro returned multiple times in multiple forms, consistently stealing the show and showcasing Chef Masa’s point: ingredients maketh the dish.
Desserts in Japanese restaurants can sometimes feel like an afterthought, but here the Shizuoka Crown Melon was a mic-drop finish. Known as the “Ferrari of Melons”, it can cost up to £200 per fruit and is grown with great care – often one melon per tree, after all. The flavour was fragrant, floral, and with an ethereal sweetness that lingered.
The drinks menu at Tobi Masa offered a creative take on classics, and nods to Japan. The Shizuku Martini incorporated sake and sesame, and the Hibiki Old Fashioned was enriched with truffle. We followed the sommelier’s recommendation and sipped our way through a Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, which was a crisp accompaniment to the meal.
Tobi Masa is a masterclass in omakase dining. The menu was presented at the end of the evening, enclosed in an envelope like a gift. The focus was on ingredients and innovation, and the result, as I declared with my mouth and stomach full, was incredible.
Where: Tobi Masa, The Chancery Rosewood, 30 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 9AN
When: Tuesday to Saturday from 5.30pm to 10pm
Contact: www.rosewoodhotels.com