Fenix makes its way from Manchester to Mayfair in London.
It’s the second day of Tube strikes in London. A weekday, no less, and the city is Covid-esque quiet – meetings are cancelled, people are working from home, and pubs are empty. The Greek restaurant, Fenix on Piccadilly, tells a different story. When we step into the venue, it feels like a Saturday night in full swing. It’s 6.30pm, every table is taken, and the room is buzzing with diners and drinkers getting a taste of the new concept.
Making its way from Manchester to London, Fenix has landed in one of London’s most polished postcodes, Mayfair. The restaurant is located directly opposite The Ritz London and Green Park, and can count the Royal Family as its neighbours, as it’s within walking distance of Buckingham Palace. The concept comes courtesy of the team behind Tattu, whose popular Chinese restaurant has already made its mark in London and Dubai.
Fenix is all about rebirth, and triumphing over adversity. When you call, you’re greeted with a voiceover that feels more suited to a film trailer than a reservation line. You’re told: “Only one phoenix can exist at a time.” It’s all rather dramatic, especially when you might just want to change your booking. While we admire how they have taken the theme and soared with it, we suspect most diners are more concerned with the meals than the myth.
The décor is happily Hellenic: warm stone, soft beiges, sun-bleached whites. The open kitchen sits at the centre like a stage, ringed by counter seating, with additional tables tucked behind. We’d suggest sitting by the floor-to-ceiling windows; even though you are looking out onto one of London’s busiest streets, the atmosphere manages to feel composed rather than chaotic. Fenix reads like a miniature study of Mayfair: well-heeled women sipping after-work cocktails, suited men sealing deals, and Middle Eastern visitors either side of our table.
The leather-bound menu is on the longer side, spanning six pages and 10 sections. Designed for sharing, it showcases a superb selection of seafood. The set menu is divided into what is called “chapters,” and by Mayfair standards, the prices are reasonable: two courses for £34.50, and three courses for £39.50. If you feel a little lost, the staff are on hand to help, and are impressively well-versed in the ingredients and cooking techniques.
We begin with spreads – the Aubergine and Feta is lifted with a hint of red pepper, and the Smoked Taramasalata is a mop-up marvel. The menu feels a little like island hopping, thanks to the names and tastes. You can’t visit a Greek restaurant without eating a Greek salad – here rebranded as the Mykonian Salad, which leans on thyme to give it a fragrant edge. The Athenian Tartare arrives looking rather luxe, as it is dressed with caviar and saffron and comes with a yuzu dressing on the side.
The mains are more performative. The Robata Grilled Brill is given the Insta-theatrics treatment, as it’s deboned tableside. The anchovy and chive butter melts into the fish. The base is soft, the skin is crisp, and the result is spot-on. The Glazed Half Chicken arrives on its own grill, coated in a punchy harissa that doesn’t hold back.
The signature dessert is the Greek Ice Cream and Lukoumades. A revolving lazy Susan is presented with toppings for you to taste. Select your doughnuts, dollop on yoghurt, and try a topping. It’s playful and polished.
The drinks list boasts wines and champagnes available by the glass and magnum – a hint at the intended clientele. There’s a strong Greek wine list, and the cocktail list leans into mythology: Apollo’s Lemonade, Heracles Old Fashioned, and Medusa’s Curse. The Mykonian Martini blends Tanqueray No. Ten, cucumber, lemon and green herbs, and is clean, bright, and dangerously easy to keep ordering. And, if you want a fun finish, order the Fenix Nest Sour – it comes in a steel wool glass that is set alight in a fittingly thematic way.
Service is on the slower side, which is understandable for the opening week, and with a full house. If this is the restaurant on what should have been a strike-hit weekday, we can only imagine what it is like when London is fully switched on. Fenix, we are ready to watch you rise.
Where: Fenix, Stratton House, 80 Piccadilly, London, W1J 8HX
When: Open daily from 12pm to 1am
Contact: https://fenixrestaurants.com