Restaurateur Samyukta Nair showcases Thai cuisine at MIKO Mei Fair.
“The magic happens on the plate,” laughs CEO of LSL Capital and FACT Dining Award London winner, Samyukta Nair. She is elegant, energetic and has the uncanny ability to keep her finger firmly on the pulse when it comes to the food scene. She is the force behind Jamavar, Bombay Bustle, Koyn and the FACT Award-winning MiMi Mei Fair. Now, she has unveiled MIKO Mei Fair on Curzon Street, Mayfair.
Speaking to FACT, Samyukta said of her restaurant portfolio: “It’s thoughtfully designed spaces, warm service, and food that’s all about authenticity. You cannot compromise on what you’re serving. People come to you for what they know – and stay for what they don’t.” So, we were eager to see whether MIKO Mei Fair possessed that same spark.
When you enter MIKO Mei Fair, it feels as though you’ve hopped on board the Orient Express from London into the old-world glamour of Bangkok. The restaurant blends two of LSL’s previous restaurants, MiMi Mei Fair and KOYN Thai. Low lighting, lacquered wood, and intimate red booths create a sense of exclusivity, and the room hums with the buzz of after-work diners and well-heeled locals settling in for the night.
MIKO Mei Fair’s menu is equally transportive. The kitchen is led by KOYN Thai’s Head Chef, Soonthorn Apaipat. Fire-led cooking sits at the heart of the experience, with a robata-style grill taking centre stage. The menu is rooted in the delicate balance of Thai cuisine, taking diners on a journey across Thailand, from the bold, punchy flavours of the North to the coconut-rich dishes of the South.
MIKO Mei Fair offers a range of menus: an à la carte menu, a set lunch and dinner menu, and a tasting menu. We opted for the Taste of Miko menu, which was good value, with six courses at £68 per person. We started with the Chicken Satay, which felt like an upgraded street-food snack with its super-soft, smoky meat and a rich peanut sauce that balanced sweetness and spice. The Black Pepper Crispy Squid was fluffy and fragrant, boasting a classy croquette texture.
A word of warning: there’s heat, lots of heat. As someone who grew up on chillies, I found this spicier than anticipated. We weren’t forewarned about the heat level, and the Morning Glory with soy beans proved too hot to handle, so we had to set it aside. The Red Prawn Curry was altogether gentler, with a cooler, creamier sauce, and the Beef Pad made for a reliable crowd-pleaser, thanks to the flat rice noodles and mushroom soy.
The highlight was the 12-Hour Slow Cooked Lamb Shank Massaman, which was fall-off-the-bone fantastic. Superb for sharing, it was big enough for two, and came with cashew nuts and crispy shallots. It was the perfect accompaniment to our bowls of fresh and fragrant jasmine rice.
The Thai Spiced Nut Brittle felt like it harked back to childhood memories, but offered a grown-up version on the plate with banana, dulce de leche and ice cream. And, after the heat, it was the cool-down we needed.
The cocktails offer a Thai twist, from the Thai Pink Spritz to the Thai Chilli Martini. There are also non-alcoholic options, from the Akoya with lychee and lime to the Not So Berries with mixed berries. Plus, there are a small number of reliable wines by the glass.
At MIKO Mei Fair, the service was prompt and professional. There were few explanations of the dishes, and wine recommendations were made fast, without any real discussion of favourites. Despite this, the restaurant seems to have found its niche. As we were leaving, every table was full with animated diners, colourful dishes and the aroma of Thailand lingering in the air.
MIKO Mei Fair: there’s magic in Mayfair.
Where: MIKO Mei Fair, 54 Curzon Street, London, W1J 8PG
When: Monday to Sunday from 12pm to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm
Contact: https://mikomeifair.com