This Eastern European spot brings a new energy to Notting Hill’s nightlife scene.
A Friday night out in Notting Hill is always a good idea, bursting at the seams with some of the best restaurants and bars in the city. Sova is the perfect addition, finding its niche in the area at exactly the right time. Located just off Portobello Road, it’s housed in the former site of ZIMA, and is run by the same team. Sova takes a wider, more modern approach to Eastern European cuisine than its predecessor, shifting from the idea of a classic restaurant to a more relaxed bar feel, with a focus on wine, music, and ambience.
Wine and vinyl bars are no longer a rarity in London – and that’s not necessarily a bad thing, but there are very few that truly stand out. Further, wine lists in the UK gastronomy scene too often stick to the obvious: France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and at a push New Zealand. Sova turns it all on its head, primarily platforming wines from Eastern Europe, with a wine list curated by sommelier Cristian Vega.
This unassuming spot has found its groove, already buzzing with energy as we find our table for the evening. I’m warned they’re fully booked so it’ll be busy – music to my ears – in addition to that of the steady beats from the DJ decks at the bar.
Service is confident yet relaxed, and the waiters are steadfast in their wine list favourites. We’re told to open our palates with an unbelievably light natural white Veltlin Strekov 1075 from Slovakia, and a fruity Amphora Orange from Serbia. Minds were instantly blown and two more ordered.
The food menu was created by Chef Denis Calmis from Moldova, centred around the idea that the dishes should follow the wine selections, and not the other way around. To start, a plate of raw tuna with adjika, cucumber, fennel and capers was equally refreshing. The adjika provided a welcome tomato-ey twist to the usual tuna ceviche dish.
Beef tartare with rye toast and a cured yolk sauce was positively guzzled by my dining partner, who branded it as “possibly the best beef tartare I’ve had in London”. Strong sentiments and loyalties to Sova were made from the first course. Beetroot croquettes rounded off the starters, on a bed of walnut and saffron emulsion. Creamy parcels oozing their bright red, sweet yet salty filling married with a tahini-like sauce that offsets it all perfectly. A dream dish that I’ll be returning for.
As the evening progressed, service significantly became more relaxed than expected. Mains took longer than expected, but the drinks kept flowing. Two glasses of the natural rosé Edgar Brutler, Gisela Pink from Romania went down a treat – a fresh summery wine that puts many others to shame.
Mains felt more traditional, leaning towards familiar Modern European options. We opted for duck breast with roasted Jerusalem artichoke anchored by the plum sauce. Cooked well and full of flavour, but not quite adventurous enough to make headlines. On the other hand, the whisky and honey-roasted baby chicken took centre stage. The juicy meat with fragrant crispy skin, with a citrusy green apple and avocado salsa, made the wait worthwhile.
Dessert was enjoyed inside, surrounded by only smiling faces and the DJ’s continued successful soundtrack. The dark wood interiors and low lighting provided a warm setting to indulge in the decadent dark chocolate mousse, aptly paired with a fruity yet sharp sea buckthorn sauce.
Closing time rolled around quickly. Turns out time does fly when you’re having fun – and plenty of fun was had at Sova. Its al fresco space is the ideal terrace for slow evenings and long overdue catchups fuelled by genuinely interesting wine and equally creative food. In a city overwhelmed with wine and vinyl bars, try Sova for a different take that is sure to pleasantly surprise you.
Where: Sova, 9 Blenheim Crescent, London, W11 2EE.
When: Daily from 6pm to 10pm
Contact: https://sova.london