Located in Mayfair, Latine offers French finesse and Latin American fire.
Fusion is often treated as a dirty word in the food world. Yet, the blending of culinary traditions has given rise to exciting creations. Tex-Mex, California rolls and chicken tikka masala all owe their existence to – whisper it – fusion. Now comes Latine, which opened in Mayfair, London: the restaurant you never knew you wanted. It is doing something different, and bringing together refined French technique with the vibrant flavours of Latin America.
Latine is located in the sleepy side street of Lancashire Court. While you are steps away from Regent Street, it feels like you are in a neighbourhood brasserie in Paris. Take your pick from seats indoors, outdoors, on the ground floor and second floor – upstairs is also home to El Cielo and it can be turned into a private dining room. You are never too far from a white tablecloth, but on the cobbled courtyard, it’s a little more relaxed. The tables are on the smaller side, but the staff were happily helping to bring two together.
Latine prides itself on its French classical techniques and showcases seasonal produce. The word fusion does not appear on the menu – we have seen marketing teams look like they will have a heart attack the moment you suggest that a fusion restaurant is just that. Here, the twist lies in the big, bold flavours of Latin America, hence the name. And, the menu is divided into starters, crudo, mains, sides and desserts.
The Gâteau de Maïs Burrata paired a creamy burrata with a corn cake, and created a dish that offered terrific textures. The Duck Croquettes arrived with a guava sauce that combined a softness and sweetness, and the crisp golden coating gave way to a melting meat. The menu came alive with the crudo selection, which were all things bright and beautiful. The Ceviche de Crevettes Rouges combined sweet red prawns with mango and yuzu, resulting in a dish that was refreshing and refined. The Steak Tartare, topped with truffle mayonnaise, combined rich beef with earthy truffle.
If you’re a French purist, you might raise an eyebrow. The cultural exchange programme reached its peak with the Bouillabaisse, and the modern take on the Provençal classic. Rather than a traditional seafood stew, it arrived as a composed dish: a fillet of fish at the centre of the plate, and surrounded by smaller fish. Plus, it was accompanied by the Peruvian chilli, ají panca rouille.
The Beef Fillet came highly recommended by the waiter. We needed some culinary convincing, as we were sceptical about the sauce – dark chocolate, anyone? The dish arrived chargrilled and with a soft smoky finish. The bitterness of the chocolate added depth without overpowering the meat.
Desserts range from a Chocolate Fondant to Crème Brûlée, and we shared the Tarte Tatin au Plantain. The dish combined coffee caramel with mascarpone ice cream, and created an unexpected pairing that balanced the sweetness of the caramel with the coolness of the ice cream.
For the drinks, there are French options by the glass and bottle. We started with the Rouge Mistral cocktail with hibiscus, pisco and Rosé Champagne, which offered a summer sip. And, then drank our way through the Sancerre. If you are not drinking, there are cool non-alcoholic cocktails, from the Lychee in Bloom to the Feugo Lento.
So, is fusion really that bad? When it is born from a conversation between two cultures, it can create something successful. Latine is more than a meeting of two cuisines; it is a celebration of cultural exchange. If French gastronomy and Latin American cooking were to have a child, this would be it – inheriting the precision of France and the passion of Latin America. Merci, gracias and thank you, Latine.
Where: Latine, Lancashire Court, Mayfair, London
When: Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm to 12am
Contact: https://latinemayfair.com