Chefs Willin Low and José Alonso bring the heart and soul of fusion cooking to Casa Mori.
There is something rather telling about a packed restaurant on a slow night. To begin with, it suggests that booking a table was a decision well made. More importantly, it hints that the menu is worth its weight in salt. Since opening its doors in June, Casa Mori has been making plenty of buzz on Dempsey Hill, the former British colonial barracks that has since traded military history for an identity as an upscale dining enclave. Much of the chatter surrounds the return of Chef-Entrepreneur Willin Low to Singapore’s homegrown culinary scene, this time joining forces with José Alonso, the Chef-Founder behind Cantera Collective’s stable of Spanish restaurants.
Casa Mori offers what fans of Chef Low have come to love: a cuisine he has personally dubbed “Mod-Sin” or modern Singaporean. Undoubtedly, there will be Iberian dining traditions woven throughout the menu from Alonso’s influence, but how well does this East meets West fusion pairing fare?
One thing is apparent on our visit to Casa Mori: the black and white colonial house the restaurant is housed in does a mighty effort to conceal the gregarious energy created within. Inside, warm, timber-clad columns keep the ceiling aloft while a sleek bar anchors the room. Towards the back of the restaurant is where the chefs build their own rhythm, executing dishes in the kitchen and keeping pace by sending plates out as the orders come in.
Despite plenty of movement, there is an unmistakable air of calmness to set diners at ease. The zen-inducing, earthy tones of its decor play their part, but it is the attentiveness of Casa Mori’s waitstaff who leave little for the fussiest guest to nitpick over — plates are cleared promptly, and the water glass is rarely empty; that seals the deal.
Casa Mori’s Kalipoquetas is a portmanteau for curry puffs and croquettes. Cradled within a thinly breaded crust is a rich curry paste filled with chicken and potato, and crowned with a curry aioli. It is easy to love, and should appropriately satisfy fans of the nostalgic Singaporean snack. The restaurant’s take on the humble satay comes served as its signature Iberico Pork Skewers. Instead of the usual peanut sauce accompaniment, the grilled meat is brushed with a sticky, sweet Indonesian-style glaze and balanced with bright notes from a pineapple salsa.
Special attention should also be paid to the Garlic Huajiao Prawns, a Szechuan peppercorn-spiced shellfish dish resting atop a light broth studded with confit garlic. The rustic bread served alongside has a purpose: peckish diners will want to finish this dish by scarpetta.
The Squid Ink Fried Rice follows. Presented in a claypot, the rice is tossed in the umami-rich ink and topped with helpings of tobiko, baby squid tempura, and an onsen egg that flows into the grains, creating a golden sauce. The portion is hearty enough for a table for four. Five, if the diners plan to explore more of Casa Mori’s unique and original menu.
For us, where Casa Mori truly shines is with its mains. Those who have grown up with the local palate will immediately recognise the inspiration behind the Spring Chicken. A Cantonese-inspired scallion and ginger relish is distributed evenly throughout slices of chicken, ensuring that each bite revives memories of the hawker favourite chicken rice.
The Black Cod will also find its own dedicated audience at Casa Mori. The dish is a well-dressed take on a traditional Teochew dish featuring a deeply savoury spread made with Chinese olive mustard leaf and Japanese pickled mustard greens. Together, the two vegetables create a deceptively complex, tangy, peppery flavour profile that pairs nicely with the buttery flakes of fish.
For the diner who considers a meal unfinished without dessert, there’s the Black Sesame Cheesecake to order. The generous slice does its job for those with a sweet tooth, while the Mochi Churros will make sharing a difficult act. Expertly deep-fried batter coated in cinnamon sugar is plated with dark chocolate sauce and homemade kaya. In short, it is a straightforward dish executed flawlessly.
Casa Mori is the sort of restaurant that warrants a return visit, if only to work your way through its sprawling menu one dish at a time. Even the most voracious appetites will struggle to sample everything in a single sitting, though that probably won’t stop anyone from trying. And if the prospect of celebrity sightings sweetens the deal, consider this another reason to book a table. Here, crossing paths with local actresses and the voice behind one of Singapore’s most beloved National Day anthems, “Home”, feels like a common sight.
Where: Casa Mori, Dempsey Hill, Singapore
When: Daily from 11.30am to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm
Contact: www.casamori.sg