The nostalgia of historic East London is brought back to life in Duchy’s French/Italian-inspired space.
London’s food scene has seen an overwhelming influx of French and small-plates restaurants lately. Yet Duchy cuts through the noise, offering the ideal neighbourhood restaurant serving dishes inspired by the French-Italian border on a weekly-changing menu.
Taking over the space that used to be the revered Michelin-starred Leroy, Duchy has big shoes to fill. But co-founders Alex Grant and Chef Simon Shand have done a fantastic job. They’ve curated a menu and space that brings the flavours of France and Italy, specifically the Duchy of Savoy region, to Shoreditch.
The interiors evoke a successful attempt to preserve the essence of old Shoreditch. Warm woods, low lights, exposed brick and candle-lit corners create a living room-like atmosphere, providing a familiar warmth that immediately sets guests at ease. The small angular space may seem unusual at first, but the open kitchen keeps the restaurant full of life, further fuelled by a colourful collection of wine and champagne bottles spilling out of every corner.
The walls lined with records catch one’s eye immediately. Duchy’s soundtrack is vinyl only, akin to the abundance of new listening bars East London has borne witness to this year. The sound system comprises a Technics turntable and a preamplifier in the back, so no mixer is needed.
As for the soundtrack, it’s curated by the staff themselves, each given an opportunity to choose the playlist ahead of service, and even able to bring in their own records. On the night we dine, the eclectic choice is Manifesto by the English rock band Roxy Music, setting the mood for the enviable evening ahead.
Neurodivergence amongst the chefs is offered as the reason behind the weekly-changing menu, centring innovation and imagination at the heart of Duchy’s culinary offerings.
Drinks-wise, Duchy is wine-led to its core. A glass of the Brut ‘Flûte Enchantée’ NV Vignoble Guillaume Franche-Comté opens up the palate with ease, offering a fruity, light sparkling touch.
The spongy house bread and delightfully creamy Nethered farm butter set us up well for an evening of decadent food, followed by a bite of Calabrian anchovy crostini with butter and marjoram. Sweet, salty, crunchy and over in a flash, we were immediately left wanting more.
This was swiftly followed by the warm comté gougères (choux buns), gooey, moreish and just begging to be mopped up by the pickled walnut emulsion they rested on.
The roast scallop, cooked only until tender, offered perfectly charred edges. Served in a pool of celeriac purée and drizzled with brown butter. The fried oysters were beautifully battered, paired with grilled leeks and topped with créme fraîche, chives and generous helpings of trout roe.
Starters and small plates ended with Jerusalem artichoke, velvety goat’s curd and bursts of lemon. We paired this merry mix with a glass of the expressive Chardonnay ‘La Tufera’ 2023 Étienne Sauzet Bourgogne, and a complex Muscat ‘Orange Tacsum’ 2023 La Mariota, Roussillon.
As a ravioli-sceptic, Duchy’s Cornish crab ravioli is surprisingly all I can think about since my visit. The parcels were generously stuffed with rich meat from Newquay, and doused in a chilli butter that danced on the edge of a welcome heat. This was best enjoyed with a glass of Grenache/Cinsault 2025 Domaine Kennel Côtes de Provence, a light rosé that paired well with the fish.
Our most highly-anticipated dish, Duchy’s juicy flat iron steak did not disappoint, resting on a flavoursome bed of parmesan risotto with a vibrant parsley gremolata to boot. This paired beautifully with the Côtes du Rhône ‘Mon Coeur’ 2024 JL Chave, a premium glass of red, with spicy notes and amazing value for money.
A second stomach for dessert meant a dangerous double order: the creamy burnt pistachio Basque cheesecake and the rich yet airy chocolate mousse with calvados gelato (of which I’m now a new convert). More recently, Duchy collaborated with Père Magloire, the renowned Normandy Calvados house, for an innovative five-course tasting menu in celebration of National Calvados Week.
Duchy is a genuinely memorable visit from start to finish. From the eclectic music to the pillowy madeleines that come with the bill, every aspect is carried out with intention. Although the menu screams France and Italy, the hospitality is utterly British: warm, polite and heavy on the drinks.
Where: Duchy, 18 Phipp Street, Shoreditch, London, EC2A 4NU
When: Open Tuesday from 6pm to 10pm, Wednesday to Saturday from 12pm to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm.
Contact: www.duchyrestaurant.com