The rising designer speaks on Arab folklore, tokenism and changing the narrative.
Zeid hopes his work challenges the norms of how Arab designers are usually seen. By taking inspiration from Arab witchcraft, alchemy, ancient folklore and esoteric art, he creates pieces that bend the boundaries of the fashion industry.
Now based between London and Jordan, and having recently graduated from Central Saint Martins (CSM), Zeid’s successes are too many to count. With a GQ Middle East campaign and a permanent feature in a V&A Museum collection, Zeid is on his way to becoming a household name.
Born in Amman in Jordan, Zeid grew up interested in the idea of the past and present co-existing rather than being juxtaposed against each other: “I was fascinated with things that had nothing to do with the typical idea of fashion. I loved stories about things that are against societal norms. Centuries ago, all the things we think are weird now are things people used in order to survive.” Such tales pushed him to question his existence as a Palestinian, and he found himself visiting historical sites like ‘The Dome of the Rock’ in Al-Quds to experience these new energies. Harnessing these new experiences, Zeid was able to create his distinctive, ready-to-wear pieces that can be seen today.
From the onset of our conversation, Zeid makes it clear that he hopes to be acknowledged for his designs, as well as his heritage, “Me being in the industry is an act of resistance in itself. I don’t feel like I need to shout that I’m Palestinian to be recognised. I can just be, and show them.” As Arab designers become increasingly platformed, the attitudes surrounding them shift too. Becoming more widely accepted comes with its downsides as well as the wins, most often seen in forms of tokenism or even a fetishisation of Arabs – more specifically Palestinians – in the fashion industry.
Not adhering to the noise is something Zeid has now perfected, but not without its challenges of course. He cites experiences at CSM of excitedly sharing ideas for new and fun collections with tutors, only to be told to focus on the violence in Gaza instead. “As long as I put a garment on a woman and I’m happy with the way it looks – I’ve achieved my goal. It’s just a feeling – like listening to a good song! I get this certain dopamine hit, and then I know I’ve been true to myself.”
Ultimately, changing the narratives surrounding Arab designers and their capabilities is something Zeid is greatly passionate about: “Every time I design a gorgeous, sensual dress, that’s me rebelling.” He hopes to venture into menswear to further this cause, particularly since men are often thought of as traditionally and conservatively dressed. How Arab men are represented in the media and the news, has a domino effect on how they’re seen in the fashion industry, “We’re seen as one-dimensional, with no depth or artistry. When people see one of my dresses that could be seen on a red carpet, that’s not something they’d expect from a male Arab designer.”
However, the limits on Arab designers remain strong, particularly in terms of access to luxury brands. Zeid hopes that one day our designers will be able to lead previously white-owned fashion houses, and hopes his work will spark that idea, “Who would think an Arab could take over Yves Saint Laurent for example?” So far, we’ve only seen a select handful of Arab designers who have graduated from CSM, but every year they leave as stars. “We’re the ones to bring new ideas to the table. The fashion industry is not exposed to what we have to offer. My goal is to shift the mindset around who the ‘Arab designer’ is and what he can do.”
In an age where labels are overused and boundaries are too defined, the ones that suffer from these are the ones with the most to offer. “In every article, they say ‘Zeid Hijazi, the Palestinian designer to watch’. Why can’t I also be ‘the new designer to watch?’” Zeid asks. FACT will be the first to say Zeid Hijazi is the rising new designer to watch – not only for his rich cultural heritage, but also for his sheer artistic talent.
Contact: www.zeidhijazi.com