Japanese-inspired dining and a lively listening bar make this Soho opening one to know.
MOI in Soho knows exactly what it’s doing. From the décor to the service, the first restaurant from MAD Restaurants exudes confidence, giving the hip neighbourhood a dining destination with plenty of personality.
On bustling Wardour Street, MOI matches Soho’s energy while offering a welcome escape from the street. The lighting is low, the room buzzes with conversation, and the music is turned up. Stepping inside feels like entering a stylish members’ club, with a welcome that puts you immediately at ease.
Designed by Yodezeen Studio, the restaurant pairs exposed brick, rich woods and textured plaster walls with wicker lighting. Earthy tones and comfortable seating make it well suited to leisurely dinners with friends or a romantic evening out.
After dinner upstairs, head downstairs to Room 86, the restaurant’s listening bar. A bespoke sound system by London-based speaker designer Friendly Pressure carries the vinyl soundtrack, with DJs playing five nights a week. It’s an easy way to turn dinner into a full evening out.
The space unintentionally nods to the fine-dining scene in Mykonos, seen in establishments like Zuma and ROKA, with an open kitchen, gorgeous cement spiral staircases and bathrooms that could be considered the main event themselves.
Recently appointed Executive Chef Robbie Jameson, previously at Humo (now Igni), also leads Northern Spanish restaurant Alta. At MOI in Soho, he has refreshed the menu and introduced a more izakaya-style approach to dining.
That confidence extends to the service. The kitchen is evidently a well-oiled machine, as chefs and waiters work together like clockwork to ensure guests feel right at home. It’s clear they know what they’re doing – each guest is made to feel special, service is carried out with authenticity and passion, whilst waiters readily give suggestions on what to order.
The concise menu covers sushi, grilled meats and claypots, with omakase also available. Japanese influences meet British produce, and each dish feels carefully considered.
The delightfully fluffy steamed bun with cod’s roe has stayed with me. Hot and crispy, paired with a thick smoked cod’s roe drizzled with house-made Lao Gan Ma chilli crisp sauce. I’ll be thinking of this dish for weeks to come.
Equally memorable was the tuna tataki crudo. The fish melted in the mouth, while the grapefruit sauce balanced sweetness with a tart edge. It was good enough to tempt me to lick the plate.
Orkney scallop crudo followed, with meaty scallops in a pool of green tomato sauce and pickled seaweed. It was another excellent opening dish.
The otoro, chutoro and sea bream nigiri were delicate and full of flavour. A crab temaki, lifted by cucumber and yuzu kosho, refreshed our palates before we moved on to the skewers and claypots.
A succulent lamb belly skewer arrived drizzled with curry emulsion, followed by the 35-day-aged short rib claypot with Roscoff onions. The latter was a richer, more substantial dish, but we devoured it all the same. The rice soaked up the meat’s juices while retaining its texture.
The drinks list at MOI in Soho features cocktails, sake and low-alcohol options. The Uchi Martini immediately caught my eye, combining KI NO BI gin, white koji sake and hinoki-yomogi bitters. Bold and full of flavour, it’s a punchy choice for a seasoned martini drinker.
The Pink Velvet is an easier sip, mixing Boatyard Sloe Gin, umeshu, pineapple and cranberry bitters. It strikes a pleasing balance between sweetness and lightness, making a second glass tempting.
London should be talking about MOI more. The food commands attention, the service puts you at ease, and the energy of the room makes it tempting to linger. With Room 86 waiting downstairs, dinner can comfortably become the whole night out.
You really don’t want to miss out on this one.
Where: MOI, 84-86 Wardour Street, Soho, W1F 0TQ.
Contact: https://moirestaurant.com