This new opening brings the energy back to St. John’s Wood High Street.
St. John’s Wood has long been a haven for Londoners with its classic white terraced houses, leafy streets and proximity to the city. Recently, though, the area has lost some of its spark; whether because of a lack of cultural hotspots and culinary offerings or its generally higher price point, the area has needed a boost. No. Forty Nine looks to change that.
No. Forty Nine arrives in the neighbourhood at the perfect time, offering a bakery, all-day bistro and wine bar right in the middle of the high street. This new all-day spot comes from the team behind the beloved Cinder, taking guests from New York into the Mediterranean with a varied yet concise menu.
The space works from day to night, with the classic brunch-y feel thanks to its high ceilings, exposed brick and large floor-to-ceiling windows lining the front of the restaurant. Eclectic pop art pieces give the space its edge (I cock my head at the case of painted Lego figurines that greet me as I walk in), whilst brown leather banquettes bring it back down to earth. An al-fresco dining option works for both a warm summer’s evening as well as a brisk autumn coffee.
Onto the food, we began with a refreshing sea bass crudo dressed in aguachile and served with tostadas. It lacked the desired citrusy flavours but offered a lighter alternative to a main meal. We followed with a lobster roll, offering a generous portion of lobster salad, stuffed inside pillowy bread that didn’t disappoint on the textural front.
We ended the starters with the famous chicken katsu sandwich, a dish you don’t want to miss. Perfectly fried chicken topped with a fresh napa slaw and Kewpie mayo, served on a fluffy brioche bun. I’d go back tomorrow just for the sandwich.
A fragrant, succulent veal meatball started our mains, smothered in a rich marinara sauce and a hefty serving of freshly grated pecorino. The ingredients are minimal but effective. We paired the lone meatball with a two-sheet lasagna made with bay leaf cheese sauce, fresh pesto, house marinara and parmesan.
Desserts are definitely not an afterthought at No. Forty Nine. The beloved crack pie with sea salt creme fraiche and olive oil is a unique dish that maintains its indulgence whilst being carried by the lightness of the cream.
House cocktails lean into the seasons, with options like a warming Brown Butter Rum Flip or a Pistachio Sour with bourbon, amaretto, pistachio, lemon and egg. The wine list is well curated but remains accessible, with strong Old World options, including a refreshing and versatile Slavonia orange wine, as well as an English sparkling option.
All in all, No. Forty Nine is a good addition to the otherwise sleepy high street. Although our dinner seating was remarkably quiet, I’ve been told their brunch menu is a real hit amongst locals. I’ll have to revisit to see for myself.
Where: No. Forty Nine, 49-51 St, John’s Wood High Street, London NW8 7NJ
Contact: www.nofortynine.co.uk