Luxury and wellness meet Muslim-friendly amenities at the first and only halal camp in the Maasai Mara National Reserve.
It’s rare, but it happens — those moments in life when everything suddenly fades into oblivion, taking a backseat to the kind of wonders that only untamed nature can boast. For me, that moment is now, during a stay at Olkupelia Mara. A hush descends inside Dennis Empapa’s rugged 4WD as, on our left, he spots a lone cheetah on the prowl, its relaxed and fluid gait making for a striking contrast to the acuity with which it scans the vast open plains for prey. On our right, meanwhile, the greatest show on earth is unfolding in real time, thousands of wildebeests moving in unison.
I’m in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, where the Great Migration across the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem between Tanzania and Kenya is taking centre stage. Between fickle weather patterns and a staggering 580 square miles to navigate, catching this wildlife spectacle is never guaranteed, but after 18 years in the game as a guide, Empapa can read the open savannah like the pages of a book. “July was dry and hot, but this is a welcome change,” he says, referencing the storm that struck the night before. “The animals will stay longer before crossing over.”
The animals in question, I learn, are an estimated 1.2 million wildebeests and 300,000 zebras that journey alongside topis and gazelles in pursuit of grazing grounds and vital water sources. This circular migration is a continuous, year-round process, but only a lucky few get to witness the most dramatic part that occurs between June and September. As the dry season progresses and the grasslands become depleted, the herds start moving northward, crossing the Grumeti River in Tanzania before braving the crocodile-infested waters of the Mara River to enter Kenya’s Maasai Mara.
But whether he’s striving for a lion sighting or deciphering the inherited compass of migratory beasts, Empapa is adamant about maintaining a safe distance from wildlife, offering up binoculars to avoid altering animal behaviour in any way — he’s from the pastoral Maasai tribe, after all, steered by an unwavering respect for nature. And it’s a mindset echoed thoroughly by his new home, Olkupelia Mara.
Stay
At a time when the complicated ethics of safaris are increasingly in the spotlight, this new retreat has a firm stance on operating responsibly — minimising environmental impact, maximising community benefits. Because Olkupelia has taken up residence along the Talek River, the longest tributary of the mighty Mara River and a lifeline for native species and local communities alike, the use of solar power and sustainable water management systems help minimise its environmental impact.
Further highlighting the evolving and more inclusive face of safari tourism is the camp’s wellness-driven DNA and Muslim-friendly amenities like halal meals, gender-segregated pools, and alcohol-free beverages, making it the first of its kind in Kenya’s renowned conservation haven. You’ll access the premises via a 66-metre suspension bridge, teasing the adventures in store, but before that comes the sense of privacy that pervades this property — my favourite feature in a world where attempting to avoid tourist crowds is part of most travel experiences. Olkupelia houses only seven tented suites – six deluxe suites, one honeymoon suite – each facing the river and 100 square metres in size.
Inside, soft furnishings by Kenyan weaving house Siafu Home and toiletries by leading African spa brand Healing Earth add a sense of place, while creature comforts like plush robes, an outdoor tub, and a coffee table book on slow travel make me want to linger. Outside, Olkupelia’s emphasis on mindful living continues into dining thanks to its organic kitchen garden, be it detox smoothies at breakfast or a farm-to-fork dinner held riverside. Hotel buffets are a notoriously major source of food waste, this we know, so à la carte dining takes precedence in this boutique setting, translating to thoughtfully curated meals plated with precision every time.
Most days, I rely on a simple “surprise me” before the likes of avocado tartare with crème fraiche, tilapia with coconut gravy and roasted vegetables, and butter chicken with spinach rice appear before me. That’s not to say you can’t dictate your dietary preferences — vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free palates are all welcome. An all-inclusive pricing model certainly simplifies the matter; all meals and drinks are included as are bush functions, access to the wellness centre, a 45-minute Swedish massage and, of course, guided game drives.
Play
Ultimately, that’s what a stay at Olkupelia Mara is all about — stumbling upon the kind of wildlife scenes that, until now, we’ve only seen in National Geographic documentaries. And with Talek Gate of the Maasai Mara National Reserve only 20 minutes away thanks to the camp’s bridge, the logistics of observing the Big Five in their natural habitat are a breeze. Splurge a little, and you can opt for a hot-air balloon ride offering a bird’s eye view of commonly spotted animals like hippos, buffaloes, impalas and more.
With the typical safari kicking off at daybreak, you will be expected to rise early, but rest assured, downtime in these parts is just as rewarding (think: zero-proof sundowners under the stars, multi-course bush dinners lit by lanterns). Back at the property, my immersion in nature continues thanks to the on-site watering hole, which brings thirsty mammals to the fore at all hours. The sight of a towering giraffe pausing for a drink before disappearing into the night feels surreal, I realise, the real world now a distant memory. Interspersed amid such encounters are even more opportunities for wellbeing — laps in a heated pool, a range of massages at the spa, and AI-powered workouts at the gym.
Learn
Having ticked off this bucket list essential, I’d argue that community involvement is as significant as respecting nature, making meaningful interactions with the Maasai (who live alongside the very wildlife that lure safarigoers to East Africa) a must. A visit to a local village is easily arranged through Olkupelia Mara, so take the time to explore a manyatta, observe traditional dances, and even learn a little about the way of life — understanding the cultural implications of stretched earlobes, for example, provides a more nuanced view of their modus vivendi. A word to the wise: Kenya may be undergoing a digital payment revolution, but cash is king when it comes to tipping and purchasing souvenirs on such excursions.
Alternatively, you can join the Maasai women supported by Olkupelia Mara as they practise the rich tradition of beadwork onsite. Thousands of tiny, brightly coloured beads come together to share stories of a unique, deeply rooted culture that’s synonymous with strength and resilience, so try your hand at beading under the guidance of these talented artisans. Elsewhere, activities like tree planting, rhino sanctuary visits, and guided bird watching further reinforce that no trip to the savannahs of East Africa is complete without an element of education. After all, safari is Swahili for ‘journey’. It’s not a destination, but the becoming — the way we move through the world and what we learn along the way.
GO: Visit https://olkupelia.com for more information.