Rooted in Dubai’s fishing heritage, Kraken is a modern ode to Emirati coastal traditions.
What Grégoire Berger did next was never going to be timid. After crafting a subaquatic dreamscape at the MICHELIN-starred Ossiano, the chef has resurfaced with Kraken, a restaurant that draws its energy from the shoreline rather than the showpiece aquarium. Kraken Dubai is a different beast altogether. It is inspired by the allure of the ocean, yet the storytelling now comes from embers and edge. Fire replaces fantasia, and the result feels grounded, modern and distinctly local.
The arrival sets the tone. Waterfalls tumble from a craggy façade as if carved by tide and time, washed in an electric blue glow that hints at the depths. Mist curls from the torrents. Inside, light glints across a reflective ceiling like the crest of a wave, while a floor projection gives the impression of fish cruising a narrow chasm beneath your feet. The room is spare and tactile, with natural textures and coastal minimalism that draw your attention to an open kitchen where the team coax flavour from coal and flame.
Chef Grégoire Berger works in tandem with Executive Chef Robin Höfer, and together they have built a menu that treats seafood as a responsibility as much as a pleasure. The language is simple. Caviar, snacks, cold plates, hot plates, from other shores, and a cheeky section titled “What’s Kraken?” where the day’s local catch arrives by way of the restaurant’s own boat and is cooked one of three ways over fire: grilled, flame-charred, or on the plancha. With its own dedicated fishing crew, Kraken Dubai controls every step of the journey, partnering exclusively with local fishermen and teaching them the Japanese Ikejime technique — a practice that ensures the most humane handling and the highest-quality fish.
The clearest way to understand the kitchen’s intent is the Taste of Kraken menu at AED 695. It opens with Shrimp Chicharron from Oman, arranged like strands of seaweed climbing from a bowl, dipped into black lemon and labneh that bring salt, sour and cream into harmony. A small dish of olives dressed with wakame, samphire and a generous pour of Palestinian olive oil nudges the palate toward the shoreline in a simple gesture, deftly judged.
A meaty Fujairah oyster, diced for ease, sits in its shell beneath a jalapeño granita and pickled cucumber. The heat is judicious, the temperature play is clever, and the salinity is crystal clear. Then comes the dish of the night: Cobia Sashimi with ao shiso and calamansi. The slivers of locally-caught fish are like satin, swimming in a herbaceous sauce that harmonises.
Tomato is handled with similar restraint. Heirloom fruit arrives under a veil of burrata foam, with a lick of tomato caramel. It appears sweet at first, before turning savoury and sunlit. The Yellowtail Tuna “Pizza” is just playful, with a delicate meringue base carrying a mix of cured and fresh tuna, piquillo and pistachio, turning the dish into a textural triumph.
Heat returns with the Blue Crab Soup, a bowl that marries tom kha aromas with a coastal sensibility. Tapioca gives glide, curry leaf oil adds perfume, and coconut and lemongrass stitch it together. It is fiery, yes, but soothing too, a little like a warm tide. The Krok Mr. follows, presenting a riff on the classic croque monsieur, stacking veal ham, pecorino and truffle into a compact flavour bomb that is rich without being heavy.
Local fish gets a respectful rethink. Grouper Karaage arrives perched on a fish bone, a theatrical touch that is more helpful than showy, guiding you where to peel and bite. Citrus kosho lifts the fried batter, while a saline nudge from Levantine shanklish reimagines the UAE’s beloved hamour through a Japanese lens. Octopus Tacos sustain the rhythm. A tender, smoke-kissed tentacle rests in a supple tortilla with seaweed mole, fried shrimp and a smoked tomato jam that adds sweetness and depth.
A pickle trolley snakes through the room between courses, lined with jars of jalapeño, carrot and cucumber. The idea is practical rather than performative, a palate reset that keeps the meal light on its feet. Dry-aged Kingfish closes the savoury sequence with confidence. The fillet is fleshy and clean, lacquered with herb sauce and paired with kale that brings a bitter edge. It is a dish that would collapse if the ageing, handling or fire were even slightly off. It does not.
Dessert is modest in description and pleasing in execution. Wild strawberries meet yoghurt and basil, a trio that plays on fragrance and texture rather than the pursuit of sugar highs. It is a finish that aligns with the rest of the menu, offers a final nudge toward clarity.
The in-house fermentation lab turns out wild berry kombuchas and sodas like jallab, lychee and tonka, each taking more than a week to reach the right balance. They pair neatly with the food, particularly for diners who prefer nuance to overt sweetness.
Service at Kraken Dubai is friendly and unforced. The team wear fisherman-inspired uniforms and refer to themselves as captains, though the idea never tips into gimmickry. Storytelling underpins the entire Kraken Dubai experience, and while dishes are not narrated as they were at Ossiano, the narrative here lies in the very fabric of the concept, from the Gyotaku, “fish rubbing” imagery that lines the walls to the prioritisation of local produce from ostrich farms in Fujairah to burrata from Dubai’s Jebel Ali.
Sustainability is not a buzzword here, and with more than two-thirds of produce sourced locally, seasonality guides the ever-evolving menu infused by innovation and global inspiration. There is even a rooftop Emirati Coffee shop offering post-prandial espresso and patisserie alongside blockbuster views of the Burj Khalifa. You never know, there may be another surprise rising from the depths soon.
GO: Visit www.krakendubai.com for more information.