The new restaurant is the brainchild of two Zuma veterans.
There is something immediately familiar about Noren. Perhaps it is the open kitchen, the handsome sushi counter or the buzz of an atmospheric dining room. Anyone who has spent an evening at Zuma will recognise certain cues. Yet this new Japanese restaurant in Jumeirah Lakes Towers has a character that extends beyond its founders’ former employer.
Noren is the first independent venture from Ilir Caushi and chef Pawel Kazanowski, previously Zuma’s Managing Director and Executive Chef. Both spent more than a decade contributing to the Japanese juggernaut’s international success. Yet Noren is an altogether different prospect: a neighbourhood eatery with Japanese cooking at its centre, best suited to repeat visits.
Named after the fabric curtains traditionally hung outside Japanese shops and restaurants, Noren balances natural timber and green tiles with colourful upholstery. An island bar anchors the room with its selection of sake, spirits, and colourful cocktails, including a terrific take on a Paloma. Rather than relying on elaborate theatrics, Noren is designed to let the food and hospitality do the talking, as witnessed through the lively open kitchen, dedicated grill, and sushi counter, which let diners watch the chefs at work.
The marvellous menu follows a familiar progression through raw dishes, sushi and the grill, but Kazanowski makes ordering beyond the obvious worthwhile.
We begin with Tomato Carpaccio with Ibaraki Soy Sauce. The colourful, thinly sliced tomatoes establish a refreshing starting point, their natural sweetness finding a savoury counterpart in the soy. A useful reminder that Japanese ingredients can provide depth without requiring a complicated composition.
Thinly Sliced Chutoro with Jalapeño Dressing takes a richer approach. This moderately fatty cut of tuna sits between lean akami and more indulgent otoro, softening across the palate without overwhelming it, while the fiery jalapeño supplies a welcome counterpoint. Beef Carpaccio with Soy Truffle Sauce follows in a more assertive register, pairing delicate slices with an earthy accompaniment.
Salmon Aburi announces itself with flames and enthusiastic calls from the kitchen. There is a touch of theatre, although the technique serves a purpose. Briefly torching the fish warms its surface and releases its fat, adding another dimension to the nigiri.
Chicken and Prawn Gyoza are generously filled, their combination of meat and shellfish giving each parcel substance and sweetness. Cauliflower Karaage proves equally compelling. Its substantial bite and fried coating could briefly convince you that you are eating chicken, although the vegetable deserves appreciation on its own terms. Chilli lemon sauce supplies heat and sharpness, keeping the dish lively. Alongside it, Okonomi Onion Rings with bonito flakes and nama shichimi turn a familiar side into an instant signature. Sweet onion, savoury fish flakes that move against the emanating heat, and chilli seasoning give the crunch several layers of flavour.
Red Miso-Glazed Bone Marrow shifts the meal towards deeper, richer territory. Marrow already offers considerable intensity; fermented miso adds a savoury dimension that makes this a dish to share judiciously. It also demonstrates Kazanowski’s willingness to stretch beyond the standard sushi-and-black-cod repertoire without losing the menu’s Japanese reference points.
Chicken Yakisoba is a textural triumph, giving the meal the satisfying momentum of a well-executed noodle dish. There is particular pleasure in moving from the yielding raw preparations to something with chew and substance. From the robata, Australian Tenderloin with Japanese BBQ Sauce takes a more direct route. It may be similar to Zuma’s Spicy tenderloin, but the cut’s tenderness adds real appeal, while the grilling gives this relatively lean beef greater depth.
Chilli Pineapple closes proceedings with welcome lightness. After marrow, noodles and beef, its fruit-led freshness is ideal, with a slight fiery finish making for a memorable finale.
Noren’s strongest quality is the breadth of food we would happily order again. While hints of Zuma remain in the décor, energy and confident cooking, this is no recreation. Noren makes a convincing case for the pleasures of a casual neighbourhood restaurant run by a team that truly cares, and JLT finally gets an elevated dining room it sorely needed.
Where: Noren, Pullman Hotel, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai
When: Opening daily from 6pm to 11:30pm
Contact: www.norenrestaurant.com