FACT Review: Estiatorio Milos Dubai

High-end Hellenic cuisine at Dubai’s most talked about beach resort.

Atlantis The Royal has officially thrown open the doors to its 17 restaurants, which include seven celebrity chef-fronted concepts. FACT’s first return to the regal property following the Grand Reveal weekend was to dine at Estiatorio Milos Dubai.

Helmed by celebrated chef Costas Spiliadis, Estiatorio Milos is a high-end Mediterranean seafood restaurant anchored around Hellenic cuisine with front-row seats to Atlantis The Royal’s Skyblaze fountain, where diners can gawp at a visual spectacular of fire and water.

Estiatorio Milos boasts the distinct advantage of being located in a standalone building, surrounded by manicured gardens and backed by the beach. It’s a serene spot away from the hubbub of the main resort building with its tetris-like façade.

The restaurant is exceptionally busy on the Tuesday evening we dine and we have to wait several minutes to be seated. To the far right of the restaurant lies the open kitchen, which is abuzz with activity. Sitting adjacent is the seafood market, where fresh catch of the day, from crab to sea bream, lies glistening on a bed of ice. 

Tanks of live lobsters prove fun, with the crustaceans attempting an escape from their glass prison on numerous occasions throughout the evening. Yet the formality of the stark white dining room is juxtaposed by the jets of fire and water that shoot skywards at hourly interviews. All tables are cleverly positioned to funnel diners’ eyeline towards the Skybvlaze fountain – the area inaugurated by Beyoncé during her recent headline set.

Estiatorio Milos’ menu celebrates time-honoured traditions and the art of sharing while utilising the freshest ingredients, including Greek wild oysters and olive oil from ancient Koroneiki trees. Skipping the oysters and caviar, we begin our meal with Milos’ signature Tuna Sashimi (AED 130) which offers four slabs of blu fin tuna doused in oregano-infused olive oil. It’s a simple dish but one that makes an impression. The Greek Salad (AED 90) laden with tomatoes, olives and cucumber focuses on ingredients rather than flavour. However, the 12-month barrel-aged feta manages to save the dish from tedium.

It’s easy to see why the Milos Special (AED 95) has been given its name. Recommended by our charming and affable waiter, the dish presents a tower of lightly fried courgette discs, saganaki cheese and cool tzatziki for dipping. It’s a moreish dish and a sure-fire contender for the best item on the Milos menu.

When it comes to the main course, indulge in the fresh seafood. You can’t go wrong whether your selection is grilled, fried or baked in sea salt. If you feel like splurging, a range of decadent lobster dishes is also offered. We opt for the more restrained sea bass filleted table side in a ceremonial attempt at dinner theatre. The resulting fish (despite a few bones) is light, flaky and beautifully prepared, offering more than enough for two people to share when you add in sides of asparagus and hand-cut Greek fried potatoes (aka French fries).

The dessert course is where Milos truly shines. Whether you opt for the Greek Yoghurt Ice Cream (AED 75) infused with Thyme Honey from the Greek Island of Kythira or the Chocolate Sin (AED 60), you won’t be disappointed. The latter offers a rich chocolate ganache spread over a hazelnut crumble that is desirably decadent.

With restaurants in Athens, Las Vegas, London, Miami and New York, the latest addition to Costas Spiliadis’ ever-expanding restaurant empire capitalises on Dubai’s desire for all things Greek. Estiatorio Milos Dubai lives up to its philosophy of simplicity, focusing on quality ingredients and culinary techniques. Granted, the location inside Atlantis The Royal is reflected in the price point, but Milos is nevertheless a special occasion restaurant backed with strong service and a lively atmosphere. The soundtrack from the DJ can become a little too intrusive, but if it’s fresh seafood and a memorable location you’re after, Milos hits the spot.

GO: Visit www.atlantis.com for reservations and more information.