FACT Review: La Mar by Gastón Acurio

Peruvian perfection at the newly opened Atlantis The Royal.

Peruvian cuisine has become the trend of choice across Dubai’s competitive dining scene in recent months, with countless Peruvian eateries and Nikkei-inspired rooftops popping up throughout the city. However, La Mar at the newly opened Atlantis The Royal comes with some heavy culinary clout, thanks to chef and restaurateur Gastón Acurio.

Gastón’s flagship restaurant Astrid y Gastón claimed the number one spot on the inaugural Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2013 and has held a place on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list since 2011. For Dubai, the Peruvian chef has opened an outpost of La Mar (meaning “the sea” in Spanish), following success in Bogota, Buenos Aries, Doha, Lima, Miami, San Francisco and Santiago De Chile.

The world’s eighth La Mar brings fresh seafood and charcoal-grilled steaks to the mezzanine level of the sprawling Atlantis The Royal. We ascend the stairs beneath drooping fishing nets illuminated in a seductive blue hue and enter into a buzzing dining room. An open show kitchen is full of activity, while Dubai’s first cebiche bar, complete with fantastical crab presentation dishes, sits off the far right. We, however, are seduced by the outdoor terrace overlooking the world’s first water and fire water fountain show.

The spectacle beneath us pales in comparison to the fantastic service from our waiter Alvin, who is knowledgeable and passionate about the concept. Following a stint at La Mar in Doha, he brings unabashed enthusiasm to Dubai’s opening team, providing us with fantastic service throughout the evening. From his recommendation to try The Royal Pisco Sour, which is topped with gold to match the regal setting, to his food recommendations which are sensible without upselling, he is an absolute asset to the Atlantis team.

Leaving the menu firmly in his hands, our meal begins with Nigiri Criollo (AED 55). This wagyu nigiri, topped with a velvety quail egg, is a textural marvel that provides an excellent introduction to Gastón Acurio’s homestyle Peruvian cuisine injected with a high-end twist. We move onto the traditional Brasa Cebiche (AED 150) comprising bluefin tuna instilled with a distinct smokiness from the aji Amarillo. The smoky ceviche is exclusive to Dubai and doused in leche de tigre, it’s a fantastic way to open that palate ahead of the mosaic of food that soon fills the table.

If you only order one thing at La Mar, ensure it’s the Chucuito (AED 145). These hand-dived scallops from Hokkaido in Japan have already become the talk of the town. Topped with cool avocado and crisp garlic chips and olive oil emulsion, it’s the subtle nuances between ingredients that make this particular dish a recipe for success.

The Anticucho Clasico (AED 65) is a traditional Peruvian street food dish of grilled skewers and is perhaps the one dish that doesn’t hit the mark. Despite an appealing char, the veal heart remains a little tough and is a touch too salty. It’s one minor misstep in an otherwise fantastic meal.

The main course invites diners to embark on a culinary voyage across Peru through classical Peruvian dishes such as Lomo Saltado, Charcoal-braised Whole Fish and Lobster Cooked in Choclo Leaf. We indulge in a whole fish from the iced seafood display, which is beautifully fried and served within its skin, which has been transformed into a basket to hold the 1kg of meat slathered in a moreish, sticky, sweet sauce.

As one of the most influential figures in Latin American cuisine, Gastón Acurio has some fierce competition on his hands. His culinary competitors across the two Atlantis resorts include Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay and Nobu Matsuhisa, yet La Mar churns out perfect Peruvian plates with aplomb.

Beyoncé may have left the building following her performance at the Grand Reveal Weekend, but there is still much to keep diners interested. Fans of ceviche, seafood and Pisco Sours are in for a real treat. Believe the fanfare. 

GO: Visit www.sevenrooms.com for reservations and more information.