FACT Review: Ambitious Indian dining at Atrangi by Ritu Dalmia

Celebrity chef Ritu Dalmia showcases India’s lesser-known dishes.

What does going for an Indian look like to you? If you’re thinking of curries with rice, think again. Chef Ritu Dalmia is changing that with the new Indian restaurant, Atrangi. Located in Jumeirah Al Qasr, it is a relaxed yet refined experience, which aims to widen your knowledge of one of the world’s most famous cuisines.

Ritu hails from Calcutta, India. At 22 years old, she opened her first restaurant in Dehli. She is famous for pioneering Italian food in India and is even the host of the TV show Italian Khana. She has opened restaurants in England and Italy and is now one of the few women behind a restaurant in Dubai.

In Hindi, Atrangi means unique. The restaurant prides itself on serving traditional Indian food with a contemporary twist. The menu draws its inspiration from lesser-known regions with local drinks (Sula wine) and dishes (no Chicken Tikka Masala here, Brits).

Ritu explains: “We want to showcase the diverse and rich culinary traditions and techniques from all over India and the authenticity of each item on our menu. From the far corners of the country to our busy city streets, we want to pay homage to our wonderful traditions”.

Atrangi knows how to make an entrance. The abra ride – buggies are available – adds to the exclusivity, as we pass peacocks and glimpse the Burj Al Arab. The plush yet playful touches range from a large glass door to a golden leaf-like chandelier, and photographs of grandmas to giant spoons with spices on the wall.

Take your pick from indoor and outdoor seats, which range from green sofas to terracotta leather chairs, all with colourful cushions. Plus, the window seats let you linger on the water view while listening to jazz versions of pop songs.

Atrangi’s service is swift and smart, giving us incredible insight into each dish. The leather-bound menu spans small plates, big plates, sides and breads. The Chef’s Tasting Menu covers five courses for AED 440, and seven courses for AED 640. If you thought Indian food was all about sloppy servings, here it has a pretty presentation and you’ll want to snap before you spoon.

Ritu likes to play with textures and flavours, and this is most evident with the small plates. The Crab and Thetcha is inspired by Maharashtrian food. Butter-poached prawns sit on a crisp cracker, and have a fresh, fragrant taste. Chole Bhature, a simple breakfast dish, is elevated to a thing of beauty. It looks like a panipuri topped with a chilli – we have to eat it in one go, and it has just the right kick. Note: nothing is give-me-milk spicy.  

The Bohri Samosa mixes Eastern and Western influences. The waiter presents us with deconstructed samosas shaped like dumplings, breaks them apart and mixes them with sauce. The pastry is thick, but the mince is fine.

We have never been to an Indian restaurant with beef on the menu, but Atrangi’s big plates include a Beef Sukka and Wagyu Beef Jadoh. It’s interesting to see smaller communities inspiring a big restaurant. Even a Parsee dish – they make up approximately 60,000 of India’s 1.4 billion population – is on the menu. Salli Boti is a slow-cooked mutton, which is oh-so-soft.

The big plates are designed for sharing, although portions are on the small side. The Kofta with Date and Cottage Cheese, which will satisfy a Middle Eastern palette, only comes with four small dumplings.

If you’re not as adventurous – nobody is judging – there are staples from Butter Chicken to Daal. Plus, fresh naans, albeit too buttery for our taste.

Indian desserts are often packed with more sugar than a packet of Haribo. The options range from Doodh Jalebi to Filter Kaapi Caramel Custard. The Serradura Trifle combines soft milk mousse with crunchy biscuits. While it may come from Goa, it takes us back to school dinners.

Jumeirah Al Qasr is already home to dazzling dining experiences, which include Al Nafoorah, Pai Thai and Pierchic. While there is the danger of market cannibalism, Atrangi is, as the name suggests, dramatically different. We look forward to seeing if it can compete with Dubai’s critically acclaimed Indian restaurants. It might not yet have the accolades, but it certainly has the ambition.  

GO: Follow @atrangi.dubai for more information.