FACT Review: SOON Nobby x True Izakaya is retro and refined

Welcome to 1980s Japan – check out the chef, cocktails and cassette dessert.

SOON Nobby x True Izakaya shouldn’t work. Not many restaurants can pull off having old hi-fis, VCRs and a giant smiling robot and still be refined. What’s one man’s junk is another man’s décor, and the venue is packed with personality. The Japanese izakaya is one of the coolest concepts in Dubai and well worth a visit.

In Dubai, diners are spoilt for choice when it comes to Japanese restaurants. The city knows how to do sophisticated sushi, from the FACT Award-winning Mimi Kakushi, and ROKA to Reif Japanese Kushiyaki and Zuma Dubai. So, it’s refreshing to see a fun and fresh take on the izakaya experience.

When we enter SOON Nobby x True Izakaya, it’s not a promising start. Located in Armada Tower 2 in JLT, the entrance is in the basement car park. Once we are inside, we are impressed with its playful yet plush features. Sure, there is a Sony-like logo and old Japanese music, but there is also a chef’s table and statement bar.

SOON Nobby x True Izakaya’s staff are smart and smiley. Dressed in kimono-style outfits, they are knowledgeable about the menu. Chef Brian Hoang pays homage to Tokyo’s watering holes and has created traditional as well as on-trend dishes. The menu covers sushi and raw, small plates, large plates, kushiyaki, rice and noodles, and dessert.

SOON Nobby x True Izakaya’s food is superb for sharing, and there are a range of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. We start with the Lobster Maki and Smoked Salmon Maki, which are fresh and full of flavours.

The Chicken Katsu Sando and Ganmodoki Sando are cut into four bitesize pieces. While the Hokkaido milk bread is thin, as it struggles to keep the sandwich together, we don’t mind – we love the fillings and order more.

All Japanese restaurants that are worth their chopsticks serve Miso Black Cod. SOON Nobby x True Izakaya’s offering is the Saikyo Miso Black Cod, which comes with daikon oroshi, kaiso and mushroom. The oh-so-soft texture and sweet taste make this a hit.

One of the most popular plates is the Wagyu Beef Mazesoba. The bone marrow, egg yolk, noodles and scallion are mixed together at the table. The result is a return-worthy dish, which has a rich, refined taste.

The desserts range from Hochija Custard to Matcha Millcrepe. Ask for the secret dessert: the Cassette – as the name suggests – is a cake shaped like a casette tape.

SOON Nobby x True Izakaya drinks menu includes beer, cocktails, sake and wine. The cocktails have anime-inspired names, from Pikachu to Sailor Moon. Don’t let the child’s play fool you – the cocktails are classy and it is worth returning just for drinks.

The whole idea sounds so niche – 1980s Japanese popular culture – but it stands out from the cookie-cutter crowd. SOON Nobby x True Izakaya doesn’t just work, it succeeds.

GO: Visit https://soondxb.com for more information.