StreetXO Review: A rogue reimagining of street food from Dabiz Muñoz

What happens when the world’s best chef opens a street food spot in Dubai?

It’s not every day that “the world’s best chef” launches a concept in Dubai. Now open on the fourth floor of One&Only One Za’abeel, StreetXO from acclaimed chef Dabiz Muñoz fuses together Eastern and Western influences into a memorable meal of audacious creativity.

Spanish chef Dabiz Muñoz is a name synonymous with avant-garde cuisine. Born in Madrid in 1980, his passion for food was fuelled by visits to the renowned restaurant Viridiana. Inspired by the artistry on the plate, Muñoz honed his skills in Spain and abroad at the likes of Hakkasan and Nobu. Upon returning to Madrid, Muñoz unleashed his creative vision with DiverXO, a culinary playground free from constraints currently holding three Michelin stars.

Today, Muñoz has been recognised by The Best Chef Awards as the world’s best chef for three consecutive years. StreetXO is his causal offshoot, a concept rooted in street food which found success in Madrid before opening in Dubai.

The Vibe

Guests arrive through a graffitied tunnel where giant octopi and the words “just cook it” are emblazoned across the wall before entering into the huge restaurant space. The vibey bar is covered in labyrinthine metal pipes holding the bottles while a neon sign reads, “Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker.” This playfulness extends into the dining room, where light fittings resemble balloons, mesh acrobats prance overhead, and tables are suspended from the ceiling rather than bolted to the floor. Welcome to the carnivalesque world of Dabiz Muñoz, where staff are dressed in straight jackets, and drinks are served in cumbersome glassware resembling the human heart.

At StreetXO, seating options abound, from tables clustered in the dining room to a gorgeous wraparound terrace. However, we’d suggest the coveted counter seats, which offer insight into the inner workings of the open kitchen. Here, adventurous diners will be privy to the production process of the many dishes without a burrata or dynamite shrimp in sight. Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Dubai anymore.

The Food

The menu is a collision of Spanish traditions and Asian techniques with unexpected takes on croquettes, paella and more. We begin with Ventresca De Atún Rojo “A La Talla” (AED 290), a remarkable Spanish red tuna belly carpaccio dish served with sherry pickled red onions and tostadas. The rich buttery flavour from the fattiness of the tuna belly is beautifully juxtaposed against Mexican yuzu-shisho aguachile and a punchy guajillo salsa, resulting in a promising plate. As the name suggests, the Sweet & Sour Hamachi Tiradito (AED 125) rolls thin slithers of hamachi into an umami-laden Ají amarillo leche de tigre that is sweetened with passion fruit and Peruvian mojo before being topped with caviar for a decadent touch of saltiness.

StreetXO’s Croquetas come in several variations ranging from Scallop to Sea Urchin. We inhaled the La Pedroche Croquetas (AED 70), moreish morsels draped seductively with slices of delicate tuna sashimi. While Thai Cold Soba Sashimi and Soft Shell Crab and Chips piqued our interest, we instead opted for the Pekinese Dumplings (AED 105). This trio of bite-sized beauties served up an unexpected flavour combination of crispy duck skin, strawberry hoisin and lemon mayonnaise. Guests are encouraged to eat with their hands and use the dumplings to create an artwork by smearing the vibrant red hoisin across what is essentially a canvas. 

The Taco De Pulpo (AED 75) is perhaps StreetXO’s unsung hero, where robata-grilled octopus is plated upon a butter yellow morita mole, tree tomato gazpacho and sprinkled with parmesan. It’s a meaty mouthful but one we would return for. Waylaid by the dainty Club Sandwich (AED 85), which gives a modern twist to the New York staple in its offering of a Black Angus beef bao topped with ricotta, a quails egg and truffle, we only manage one main. The signature Lasagna Not Lasagna (AED 160) plays on perceptions with its layers of 45-day dried aged beef, cardamom bechamel, spicy kimchi sauce and cherry tomatoes topped with crispy wontons for texture.

The dessert menu is affectionally referred to as the Candy Place, and while the Macadamia Ice Cream with Marshmallows (AED 60) was far too dense and decadent for this Editor-in-Chief, the Fluido (AED 75) was an utter delight. This white chocolate and egg yolk lava cake served with Tom Kha ice cream and coconut crumble is a stellar example of Muñoz’s mind-bending flavours. 

The Verdict

Inspired by the vibrant street culture of the world’s most energetic cities, StreetXO arrives in Dubai with plenty of culinary clout but lives up to expectations. Expect cocktails made from liquid ceviche or topped with pop rocks, an R&B soundtrack louder than a nightclub, and infectious energy that encapsulates everything from the food to the diners.

The service at StreetXO reflects the overall vibe – friendly, knowledgeable, and ready to guide you through a rogue reimagining of global street food.

StreetXO is now open for dinner from 6pm to midnight daily.

GO: Visit https://streetxo.com/dubai for reservations and more information.