The Trèsind brand showcases Chef Himanshu Saini’s fine-dining Indian cuisine.
I have a confession: I love Trèsind. I know, as a journalist, I’m meant to be objective. After living in Dubai, where the brand made its name, it became a firm favourite when my parents visited – an honour that carries critical weight. After all, if you can impress Indian parents with Indian food, it’s not good, it’s exceptional. When I heard that the team behind the three-Michelin-starred Trèsind Studio – the only Indian concept in the world to hold this accolade – were expanding in London with Trèsind Mayfair, I knew I had to visit in the name of investigative journalism.
Today, Indian food is a part of British life. As the British MP Robin Cook declared: “Chicken Tikka Masala is a true British national dish.” Curry now sits comfortably alongside fish and chips, and sometimes even with curry sauce on the side. It is a cuisine embraced across every level of society, from humble takeaways to royal occasions, with even King Charles III and Queen Camilla’s inviting tiffin carriers to their wedding.
The critical consensus has long suggested that London serves the best Indian food outside India – a notion I’d come to see, after moving to Dubai, as something of a post-colonial myth. With a larger Indian diaspora and closer proximity to India, there is less need to repackage a palatable, traditional version of the cuisine. And, few brands capture that more than Trèsind.
The Indian food scene in London is about to get shaken and stirred. The usual suspects – Gymkhana’s fine dining and Dishoom’s queue-worthy cuisine – are famous among locals and international audiences. Since opening in 2014, the Passion F&B group has expanded to include Trèsind Dubai, Trèsind Mumbai, and Trèsind Studio – the latter being its Michelin-starred jewel in the group’s crown, and winner of Restaurant of the Year at the FACT Dining Awards Dubai on four occasions. The result: it has set the standard for modern fine dining Indian food.
Located on Hanover Square, Trèsind Mayfair is within walking distance of Regent Street and Green Park. The décor leans towards a dimly lit, dark-wood aesthetic and feels more like it could be any luxury hotel lobby in London. There is an art installation in the main dining room, which sees fragmented pieces come together to form a map of India – but they are dark pieces on a dark wall, which almost makes it feel like it is furniture. It’s dishes over design, as the food is what takes centre stage.
FACT visited for lunch, one week before the official opening. We opted for the Chef’s Tasting Menu for £125, which showcased Chef Himanshu’s passion and precision. Born and raised in India, he is credited with redefining Indian cuisine – a huge feat for someone who is 38 years old. Each dish arrived with a detailed description and origin stories about the ingredients, from Guntur chillies in Andhra Pradesh to mushrooms foraged in Kashmir.
There was careful guidance on how best to enjoy each sip and bite. When I was a child, I remember watching a visitor in our home attempt to eat chapati with a knife and fork, only for it to ping off the plate to the amusement of my siblings and me. Now, the tables have turned, and I found myself momentarily unsure how to approach dishes rooted in my own heritage, and reimagined with refined presentation and cutlery.
The amuse-bouches set the tone beautifully – playful and polished. I was won over by the Pani Puri. Presented as a canapé with carrot kanji and pickled pineapple, it delivered a joyful explosion of flavours: sweet, spicy, creamy, crunchy – all in one delightful mouthful.
The Mushroom Chai encapsulated Trèsind’s innovation and influences. A combination of dehydrated English tea, truffle powder and three mushroom varieties resulted in a silky, umami-rich broth. I found it classy and comforting – each smooth sip revealed an earthy taste.
The Tortellini showcased Italian technique and Indian flavours. An elevated nod to that Chicken Tikka Masala, the dish mimics the comforting pairing of bread and curry, as pasta stands in for chapati. Our waiter explained, “We see cheese as European, but this cheese is sourced from India. It’s a tribute to Punjabi farmers.”
The Prawns with Asparagus offered a familiar flavour, and one that many might recognise from a traditional curry house, thanks to the creamy tomato rasam. There was a warmth rather than heat to the spice, keeping it comforting rather than challenging.
The Crab with Ghee Roast Masala might as well become a signature dish. Move over Duck and Waffle – if Trèsind Mayfair served breakfast, this should be on the menu. Served with a lentil waffle and drizzled with hot honey, it struck a bold balance. The crab brought a fiery kick that had everyone at the table reaching for water, but the sweetness of the honey softened the blow.
Desserts are tricky territory in Indian restaurants, and are often sickly sweet. It’s hard to forget a childhood with sticky jalebi fingers. The Khichdi of India brings together a medley of ingredients and is an ode to the healthy dish cooked in Indian homes. Pandan Payesh came with notes of vanilla and sour milk, but it could be served in any modern restaurant around the world.
The full drinks menu for Trèsind Mayfair has not yet been unveiled. In the basement, there will be a bar, which will welcome guests for bites and beverages. In the existing venues, we spotted drinks made with chillies, cumin, cardamom and more. Trèsind Mayfair is still settling into its surroundings, but its ambition is undeniable. The restaurant delivered heart, soul, and game-changingly great food. Our stomachs and hearts were full, and we may have fallen in love with it a little bit more.
Where: Trèsind Mayfair, 13-14 Hanover Street, Mayfair, London. W1S 1YH
When: Monday to Saturday 5.30pm to 12am
Contact: https://tresind.co.uk